Northern Madagascar road trip from Nosy Be: a 5 to 7-day itinerary
A turquoise lagoon, mountain rainforest home to lemurs and tiny chameleons, grey limestone pinnacles and red earth spires, wind-swept bays: northern Madagascar fits into a short week on the road. From Nosy Be, where we have been guiding since 2017, here is how to plan it, step by step.
Why the north instead of the RN7
The RN7, from the capital to the south, is the classic first trip to Madagascar. The north is another option, and often an easier one when you are already staying in Nosy Be: no need to go back through Antananarivo, reasonable distances and a striking variety in a small area.
In a few days you go from the rainforest of Amber Mountain to the tsingy and caves of Ankarana, then to the beaches and lagoons of Diego Suarez. It is a trip made for slow travel: few stops, two or three nights in the same place, and time to walk, swim and talk with local people.
Getting from Nosy Be to Diego Suarez
| Option | Route | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| By road (our choice) | Boat from Nosy Be to Ankify, then the RN6 via Ambanja and Ambilobe to Antsiranana | A long day, around 7 to 10 hours according to travellers' accounts and road conditions. The upside: Ankarana and the Red Tsingy are on the way. |
| Aquajet flight | Antananarivo – Mahajanga – Nosy Be – Antsiranana | Route launched on 30 March 2026 with a small 10-seat plane. Handy for the way back; check flight days and fares with the operator. |
| National airline flights | Domestic flights to Nosy Be and Antsiranana | Schedules often change: keep a buffer before an international flight. |
Ankify and Ambanja are only about 30 km apart; from there the RN6 heads north. For international and domestic flights, read our article Flights to Nosy Be and Madagascar.
The must-see stops
For an overview of the region, see also our destination page Diego Suarez.
The Emerald Sea
A large green-turquoise lagoon off Diego Bay. You reach it by boat from the village of Ramena in about thirty minutes, for a half or full day: swimming, snorkelling and grilled fish on an islet beach. With the wind, the crossing can be lively: bring a dry bag.
The Three Bays
East of Diego, Sakalava Bay, Pigeons Bay and Dunes Bay follow one another along the coast. A coastal trail links them: depending on the source, allow from 1.5 hours to several hours of walking, starting early before the heat. Near-empty beaches, cliffs, dunes and Indian Ocean views.
Amber Mountain
Created in 1958, it is one of Madagascar's first national parks. The entrance is at Joffreville, south of Diego. Montane rainforest, crater lakes, waterfalls (including the Sacred Waterfall), crowned lemurs and one of the world's smallest chameleons, Brookesia minima. Trails range from 45 minutes to more than 8 hours: allow at least a full day.
The Red Tsingy
About 60 km south-east of Diego: roughly 50 km on the RN6, then an 18 km track towards the Irodo valley. Erosion has carved sandstone, marl and limestone into red, orange and ochre spires. These formations are fragile and change with the rains. Late-afternoon light makes them spectacular; an entrance fee is paid on site.
Ankarana
Ankarana Special Reserve, managed by Madagascar National Parks, has its main entrance at Mahamasina on the RN6, 108 km south of Antsiranana and 30 km north of Ambilobe. Sharp grey tsingy, canyons, caves and underground rivers, dry forest and ten lemur species, including the crowned lemur and Perrier's sifaka. The eastern area is open all year; the western circuits run from July to November.
Kitesurfing in Diego: Sakalava Bay
Diego Suarez is known for its steady wind. The main spot is Sakalava Bay, about 20 km from town: a warm, shallow lagoon protected by the coral reef, suitable for beginners and experienced riders alike.
- The wind: the varatraza, a south-east trade wind, blows roughly from April to November.
- The peak: June to September, with strong wind almost every day.
- Early and late season (April, November): lighter wind, more comfortable for learning.
Schools offer lessons and gear rental on site. We are happy to add one or two days at Sakalava to your trip, with a night by the bay.
Day-by-day itinerary
| Day | Programme |
|---|---|
| Day 1 | Boat from Nosy Be to Ankify, then road via Ambanja and Ambilobe to Mahamasina. Night near Ankarana. |
| Day 2 | Ankarana in the morning (tsingy, caves, lemurs). Drive north, detour to the Red Tsingy in the late afternoon, night in Diego Suarez. |
| Day 3 | Full day by boat to the Emerald Sea from Ramena. |
| Day 4 | Amber Mountain from Joffreville: waterfalls, lakes, crowned lemurs and chameleons. |
| Day 5 | Three Bays hike from Sakalava. |
| Day 6 | Kitesurfing or rest at Sakalava, or a stroll around central Diego. |
| Day 7 | Back to Nosy Be by road, or by plane depending on flight days. |
5-day version: keep days 1 to 4, hike the Three Bays on the morning of day 5 and fly back in the afternoon if a flight is available. Then enjoy the sea and the islands: our article Things to do in Nosy Be has plenty of ideas.
Best time to go
| Period | What to know |
|---|---|
| April – May | End of the rains, green landscapes, the wind settles in. A very good time. |
| June – September | Dry season and strong wind: perfect for kitesurfing, choppier seas for boat trips. |
| October – November | Hot, the wind eases, Ankarana's western circuits are open. Note the new park fees from 1 November 2026. |
| December – March | Rainy and cyclone season (especially January to March): difficult tracks, keep your plans flexible. |
Our local tips
- Do not underestimate the road: drive the RN6 in daylight, with breaks. Splitting the trip at Ankarana makes the first day far more pleasant.
- Pack warm and rain layers for Amber Mountain: it is cooler and wetter than Diego.
- Sturdy closed shoes for the Ankarana tsingy, and a headlamp for the caves.
- Carry ariary in cash: site entrances, tips and small purchases are paid in cash.
- Visit with a local guide: in the parks, site guides spot lemurs, chameleons and birds you would never find alone.
- Keep a buffer before your international flight: domestic flights are often rescheduled.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need for a northern Madagascar trip from Nosy Be?
Five days for the highlights if you fly back, seven days to add the Three Bays, kitesurfing and a relaxed return by road.
How do you get from Nosy Be to Diego Suarez?
By road: boat to Ankify, then the RN6 via Ambanja and Ambilobe, a long day (around 7 to 10 hours). By air: the Aquajet route launched on 30 March 2026, to be confirmed with the operator.
How much is the Ankarana entrance fee from November 2026?
130,000 Ar per person per day for a foreign visitor from 1 November 2026, according to MNP announcements. Reconfirm before you travel.
When is the kitesurfing season in Diego Suarez?
From April to November, with the strongest wind from June to September, in Sakalava Bay.
What is the best time for a northern Madagascar road trip?
The dry season, from April-May to November. Avoid January to March if you can, the rainy and cyclone season.