Ifaty, Anakao and Toliara: the guide to Madagascar's south-west beaches
A turquoise lagoon, the sailing pirogues of Vezo fishermen, a baobab forest and sunshine almost all year round: the south-west is Madagascar's driest coast. It is also the region we recommend first when your holidays fall between November and April, when the rest of the island enters the rainy season. Here is how to choose between Ifaty and Anakao, what to do there, when to go and how to plan your stay.
Why the south-west
Toliara (Tuléar) is the driest region of the country, with about 360 mm of rain a year. While Nosy Be and the east coast get heavy rain from December to March, the south-west stays sunny most of the time. Here you find a coast protected by a coral reef, Vezo fishing villages that have lived from the sea for generations, and, a few minutes from the beach, a spiny forest and baobabs you will not see anywhere else.
It is also the natural end of the RN7: after the highlands and Isalo, a few days on the beach at Ifaty or Anakao is the best way to finish a trip through the south.
Ifaty and Mangily
About 25 to 30 km north of Toliara on a paved road (around thirty minutes), Ifaty and neighbouring Mangily stretch along a bay sheltered by the reef. It is the most accessible beach area in the south-west, with a good range of accommodation.
- Lagoon and reef: snorkeling, guided diving and trips in Vezo outrigger pirogues.
- Reniala Reserve: a 45-hectare private reserve in Mangily protecting a forest of baobabs and didiereaceae and around 60 endemic bird species. Visits take 1.5 to 2 hours with a local guide, ideally early in the morning for the birds.
- Village life: fishermen coming home in their pirogues, a zebu-cart ride and a grilled fish dinner.
A safety tip: do not wander alone into the spiny forest around the villages. Go with a local guide: it is safer and far more interesting.
Anakao and Nosy Ve
About 40 km south of Toliara, Anakao is a Vezo fishing village of around 3,000 people. The track is poor, so you go by boat, in about an hour from Toliara harbour. At low tide, the trip sometimes starts with a zebu-cart ride out to the boat, which is part of the adventure.
- Nosy Ve: a small, protected, uninhabited island opposite Anakao, with no accommodation, visited by day. White sand beaches and snorkeling in very clear water.
- Vezo culture: thanks to its isolation, Anakao has kept a traditional way of life turned towards the sea. Sailing pirogues heading out at dawn are the image of the region.
- Peace and quiet: few vehicles, few people, and days that follow the tide.
Around Toliara
- Antsokay Arboretum: a great introduction to the plants of the south, near Toliara.
- Sarodrano and Saint-Augustin: a cave and coastal landscapes on the Mozambique Channel, south of the town.
- Andaboy dunes: a quad-bike outing in the coastal dunes at the end of your stay.
- Toliara town: the town and its market, for a first contact with local life, with a guide.
Ifaty or Anakao: which one?
| Ifaty / Mangily | Anakao | |
|---|---|---|
| Access from Toliara | Paved road, about 30 min | Boat, about 1 h |
| Atmosphere | Beach resort, more choice | Remote village, very quiet |
| Highlights | Reef, Reniala, baobabs | Nosy Ve, Vezo culture |
| Ideal for | Short stays, families | Switching off, couples |
Our advice: if you have at least a week, do both. That is exactly what our programmes below offer: a few nights in Ifaty, then the boat to Anakao.
When to go
- All year round: it is the driest region of the country, which makes it a very good option during the rainy season, from November to April.
- December to March: very hot, with peaks of up to 40 °C. Plan outings for early morning and late afternoon. Cyclone risk exists across Madagascar, mainly from late December to mid-April: keep some flexibility.
- June to September: milder temperatures. It is also the humpback whale migration season, and whales are sometimes seen offshore, with no guarantee.
To compare with other regions, read Madagascar in the rainy season and when to visit Madagascar.
Getting there
- By air: domestic flight Antananarivo → Toliara, about $170–280 one way depending on the season. We meet you at the airport.
- By road: at the end of an RN7 trip, after Isalo. Allow at least 8 days from Antananarivo to enjoy it: see our Isalo and RN7 guide or our 3-week itinerary.
- On the spot: road transfers to Ifaty, boats to Anakao and Nosy Ve. Sea trips always depend on sea conditions.
Our programmes and prices
Toliara – Ifaty – Anakao: 8 days / 7 nights, from €790 per person
Airport welcome and Toliara city tour, Antsokay Arboretum, Ifaty (Vezo pirogue, lagoon, snorkeling), Reniala Reserve, boat to Anakao, Nosy Ve excursion, Saint-Augustin, then airport transfer. Accommodation, transport and activities included according to the programme; meals not included unless stated. See the programme.
South-West circuit: 7 days / 6 nights, from €590 per person
Ifaty and its baobab forest, Anakao and Nosy Ve, Sarodrano, Saint-Augustin and a quad-bike outing in the Andaboy dunes. Included: 6 nights' accommodation, breakfasts, land transport, Toliara ↔ Anakao boat transfers, Nosy Ve excursion and the visits in the programme. See the circuit.
Prices are calculated for one traveller and adjust to the number of participants and the accommodation chosen. Flights, meals not mentioned and tips are not included.
Frequently asked questions
Ifaty or Anakao: which is better?
Ifaty is 30 minutes from Toliara by paved road, with more accommodation, the reef and the Reniala baobab reserve: ideal for short stays and families. Anakao is a remote Vezo village reached by boat in about an hour, quieter, with day trips to Nosy Ve. With a week or more, do both.
Can you visit south-west Madagascar in the rainy season?
Yes. Toliara is the driest region of Madagascar, with about 360 mm of rain a year, which makes Ifaty and Anakao a good choice from November to April. It is very hot from December to March, and cyclone risk exists across the country from late December to mid-April.
How do you get to Anakao?
By boat from Toliara harbour, in about an hour. The track is in poor condition. At low tide, the transfer sometimes starts with a zebu-cart ride out to the boat.
How much does a stay in Ifaty and Anakao cost?
Our Toliara – Ifaty – Anakao programme (8 days / 7 nights) starts from €790 per person, and our South-West circuit (7 days / 6 nights) from €590 per person, calculated for one traveller. Flights and most meals are extra.
Can you see whales from Ifaty or Anakao?
Humpback whales migrate along the coast roughly from June to September and are sometimes seen offshore, but sightings are not guaranteed. For dedicated whale watching, Sainte-Marie is more reliable.